The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina - Romania

2 Comments

The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina - Romania

I had an interesting conversation this morning with the kind lady running the small pension I'm staying at, near "Suceava". We were talking about bus timetables, and I was asking at what time I should leave to get the "Gura Humorului" bus. And the answer I understood from the gestures and my broken Romanian was this one: that if ever she cuts her own finger, I should come back in 50 years and it'll all be fine. Which is odd. And which also speaks volumes on how little I've learned of the language despite spending so much time here. Anyway,

 
The most flowery mode of transportation in the world in is Gura Humorului, Romania

The most flowery mode of transportation in the world in is Gura Humorului, Romania

 

I'll let you in a bit further behind the scenes here. My Ukuleles and I have a system. We talk to people, ask them what's nice in their country, and go there. It's fairly simple. So when I asked Romanians what I should check out in their land, I heard about "painted monasteries in the North" quite a few times. So off I went. They didn't mention that I should better have a car, that there aren't that many buses and bla, but, it's not like I asked. 

Pictured above, I'm guessing, Jesus with sort of braids inside the Voronet Monastery, also pictured. Then, paintings on the exterior of the Humorului Monastery, also pictured.

Maybe it was the weather, my mood, or the fact I'm not an Orthodox Christian, but, the paintings didn't really win me over. I enjoy the idea, of painting lots of people on buildings. It's fun. A lot of the depictions even look like comic strips, except instead of batman saving Gotham City, it's Jesus and the Gang saving our souls. Not much dialogue though. And, well, it's not very well drawn to be honest...

My not-so-insightful criticism apart, from the many - probably beautiful - painted Monasteries, I managed to do 2 or 3. Which is not that bad. I still got a good feel for the place. And inspiration for a song:

 
 

These two Monasteries above are part of the so-called "Painted Monasteries of Bucovina". The Voronet (with a ț and pronounced Voronets) Monastery was built in 1488, and the Humorului one (in the video) in 1530. Their importance, which completely eluded me, was not missed by UNESCO, who put them in a pretty-important-buildings-list with a few others from the region. The paintings depict the lives of famous saints, in a way that was designed to be accessible to all, although, I didn't really get which way it was supposed to be read. An interesting fact about the Voronet Monastery (which has a river nearby, where a little blue ukulele accompanied a certain song about paint), is that the unique (I was told) bright blue on the outdoor walls was given its own name; the Voronet blue. Which I am retrospectively very glad to have seen, with my own shade of blue and its four strings on my back.

it's not play, it's not a masterpiece, it's not a portrait here to stay. just like like the pictures on these walls they cease, to shine and slowly fade away. only cold stones I fear is what you see, not the bright colours that I thought would be.

A musical colleague, in the Voronets blue. Playing a few chords and watching on, as a tiny white man comes out of a young boy's mouth, and while his buddy to his left is casually killing demons.

A musical colleague, in the Voronets blue. Playing a few chords and watching on, as a tiny white man comes out of a young boy's mouth, and while his buddy to his left is casually killing demons.

2 Comments

Citadel Sighișoara, Romania

6 Comments

Citadel Sighișoara, Romania

It would appear that, as far as my Transylvanian adventure goes, I have left the most charming for last.

Although you don't really need much more than a day to see everything inside the old German Citadel of Sighișoara, it is a place you will be glad to have stopped by. And stopped by I did. From the Clock Tower, to the less fancy but mysterious Boot Tower and through the "Scara Acoperita" (Scholar's stairs) which leads you to the aptly-named Church on the Hill, it is a place where you travel back in time. If you can pretend the many tourists are German merchants and Wallachian Kings in exile (Vlad II Dracul, Dracula's Dad was here for a bit when he lost his Throne), then it's just like you were there, "back then".

Vlad Tepes, or Dracula, was actually born in Sighișoara, so he does steal the limelight of famous "Sighișoarans" a bit. But this citadel is also the city of a certain Johannes. Yes, another one. Not the one with the beard. Johnnes Kelpius, born Johann Kelp near Sighisora in 1667, was a musician and theologian of the most pious kind. And in his mid twenties, he embarked for the New World with 40-odd followers, to establish a retreat, to achieve and teach constant spiritual devotion. This is him, trying to leave his birthplace, despite some... er, issues?

 
 
Who are these faces I see
They rigidly follow the streets
A song, a prayer for a smile
their look stays stern all the while
Leave or Stay, a common phrase
And ev'ry day, a haze
Shall I follow the beast in me that cries?
Shall I desire only her eyes?

Now, I know what you're probably thinking. You're thinking, "Wait a second, Ben. The song is alright and all that, but, wasn't Sighișoara called Schässburg back then?". Well, first of all, er, let me congratulate you on your excellent Romanian knowledge! I didn't know you knew so much about Transylvanian history. Well done! And secondly, well, yes, creative licence I guess.

Despite predicting the end of the world in the year in 1694 (epic fail, there), Johannes' work and philosophy are extremely interesting for their time. This young man preached a faith not based on rituals, speeches in big churches with lots of echo and little biscuits you get at the end, but would rather lead his followers to focus on a constant, love-filled devotion. He actually wrote a very short book called "A Short Easy and Comprehensive Method of Prayer" which is in full, here. I actually read it! I - actually - read it! Only because it is very short. Let me share a bit of it with you here:

"When the worldly Love [materialisism] bears Rule in a Heart, we must conclude, that the divine Love is not there;  but when the divine and true Love of God [...] is well known in the Heart, and practiced, so must we conclude, that it is and bears Rule therein [that it's there, basically];  although the Heart with [materialistic] Temptations is uneasy, and seems to shew the contrary, which is grievous enough [which is a pain in the arse really]."

And that is precisely what the song is about. A battle between materialistic "worldy" cravings and devotion. I must add, creative licence jumps in here again, because there is no way of being sure Johann actually had that dilemma. He probably did though. Albeit, clearly, not when he wrote the book, as you will see if you do glide over a couple of pages in his Book.

 
Johannes Kelpius, badly drawn

Johannes Kelpius, badly drawn

 

Pfoa. This is quite a long one isn't it? If you've come this far, feel free to leave a comment or something, you know, so I know. But I must mention briefly here a local festivity which enlivened my stay immensely: The Academia Sighișoara. This fine classical music festival, with dozens of free concerts over two weeks in various beautiful locations, deserves a special (musical?) note. And you can learn more here if you're planning your next summer in Transylvania!

So it's bye from me! And Johann says hi. Probably.

Get a postcard from Ben here -

6 Comments

1 Comment

Cluj-Napoca, România (the hat makes it "uh")

Still known as Cluj to most, the name of a Roman settlement, "Napoca", was added to the city in the 1970s. So it's Cluj-Napoca if you're feeling in a formal mood. Probably, and I'm very thankful for it, to make rhyming much easier (not a fact).

Most of the younger generation will advise you to pass by here during a short stay in Romania. It's a buzzing city with a great night life - or so I had heard. But travelling as slowly as I have been, I landed in the the famed Student-City in the middle of the summer. When all the students are with mum and dad, or, going commando at the Vama Veche beach. (fact)

Landing in "Cluj" in the Summer is a bit like going to a strip bar on Christmas day. It's usually a bit more crowded than this. Although, I've never been to a strip bar on Christmas day, so this might not be the most accurate comparison. Or to any strip bar actually, ever... I should choose my analogies better. (also, fact)

 
 

Pictured above, a few snaps from Cluj-Napoca and myself, trying and failing to think of good analogies for this blog-post.

Never mind that though, because here, I was blessed to receive the hospitality of a few wonderful locals. And by locals I mean, students from somewhere else that were spending their Summer there. So, fortunately for me, there was lots of learning and exploring on the programm. Most of which has been bundled up in the almost famous Ukulele Road Trips Podcast !!

Listen to the UkuRT Podcast - Episode Seven - Student City Cluj! With Anna, Ana-Maria and Natalia.

Behold! An immense amount of fun with language-knowledge, exploring, and singing a plenty. Much wow! You should probably download it for your next 40-minute bus/car/lorry/drone ride. Just saying.

During my stay, I popped down with my ukulele to nearby city Turda, to visit something very special. There, you can enter the depths of the earth and explore a breath-taking (out-of-use) salt mine, where you can... play bowling, ping-pong and row on a boat a bit. There is a  little "Salina Turda mines" chat in the podcast, and maybe, even a song inspired by it. So, before I make my way, to my last Transylvanian stop, I'll leave you with a few of its lyrics:

from the depth of the earth and my soul comes this song, where I invite you underground to play ping-pong, holding your salty hand I will lead you on a boat, asking you as the chilled air clears my throat, won't you be mine...

if your answer is a shake of the head, make me a tomb of salt, I'd rather, rather be dead. So show me I beg you a different sign, as the nervous drops of sodium chloride trickle down my spine, won't you be mine...

1 Comment