Transylvania - Castles and ... Dracula?

Welcome to Transylvania! Not in a 'scary hungry monster' way. In a nice way. Really, welcome in Transylvania, it's lovely!

After decades of movies about a pale Vampire living in these parts of the world, most people will think of Dracula when Transylvania is mentioned. This is great for tourism, but almost none of the ideas we have about these vampire legends are grounded in anything local, events or beliefs.

Basically, an Irishman called Bram was bored in the south of England and wrote a scary novel.  And did a pretty good job. To make it spooky, he set it in the middle of the romantic mountains and castles of Transylvania and invented a character that feeds on innocent flesh. Originally Mister Stoker was going to call him "Count Wampyr", which is a terrible name. So after having read a bit of Wallachian (South Romanian) history, he changed it to one he read in there: "Dracula".

Dracula did actually exist. And is pretty pissed at the confusion. Here is the story of Wladislaus Dragwlya as he wrote it in Latin, or, Vlad III Draculea, son of Vlad II Dracul, ruler of Wallachia.

be sure to switch the subtitles on bottom right of the video. Vlad mumbles a bit.

So, as you can see, a monster in his own way, but certainly not one that transforms into a bat.

Somehow, this dated Gothic book by Bram is a blessing. It lures tourists from all over the world who go out of their way just to see Dracula's Castle, "Bran Castle" (not Bram's Castle) as it is known here in Transylvania.

Bran castle (pictured in the video) wouldn't be getting half the tourists it has today, but it is fully deserving of all this attention. And of course the tourists end up visiting a few other things in the region, after having bought the Dracula fridge magnet. And many of the Region's other castles are as interesting as the aforementioned. Less crowded obviously, but not less interesting or beautiful (exept for the one in Peles, which is beautiful, but not interesting).

"Communist Bucharest"

It's a little bit tricky focusing on communism in Bucharest. The history of that period is omnipresent, and for some, still an open wound, considering how recent it is. But as I learned from the enthusiastic young people here, whom I relentlessly -and unsuccessfully- beg to follow my Facebook page, it's the past. And everybody is moving on.

Nevertheless, I've ended up concentrating a little bit on this turned page. I find it to be a fascinating read, but it if the book it is in, is the history of Romania, it is without a doubt one of it's darkest passages.

The subject has been touched quite a fair bit in the Ukulele Road Trips Bucharest Podcast, and I'm touching it here a bit more, but I will continue the touching through a different medium: the medium of dancing in front of a big building, that tells the story of communism in Romania and the capital.

Wow. That was nice wasn't it? No? Oh... Anyway,

Something a bit more specific from that period, and that for some reason caught my attention: moving churches. Yep. Really. Obviously not by themselves though.

You can read more about this strange idea on Marius' fine blog Tour of Communism.

Or listen to a very under produced song just here. I was a bit tired from all the touching the topic while dancing on the Izvor Park lawn for the video just before. So touching this time the (emotionally) moving matter of putting huge devotional buildings on railing:

(sidenote/question: is anybody actually reading this?)

A few "moved them, moved them" churches peeked here and there strolling through the center:

Romania 101 - Bucharest

It has happened ! Really ! Ukulele Road Trips (my two ukuleles, my backpack and me) has finally made it to a new country. Really ! We got the credits for the previous class, only just, and we're now roaming (or rowing, as you will see in the video) in Romania. Yes, Romania.

Starting of course, as anybody would on a musical-blogging ukulele adventure, with the capital, Bucharest.

And to discover and learn about this intriguing city, you can listen to the Bucharest PODCAST, recorded with locals, helping you take your first steps with the Romania language, history and basic techniques for moving churches. This is Romania 101 ! A bit like PowerPoint presentation on the first day of school, except with rapping, songs and jokes. And no PowerPoint presentation.

"Come on, give is a song then!" - Outside the Bucharest Athaneum

One of the things you've probably taken notes about while studying the podcast, is that Bucharest used to be called "the little Paris". And not without reason. Here's a little explanation in walk-about sing-along song which would fit perfectly between two slides with colourful charts about demography and the consumption of croissants and wine in Romania.

The Cișmigiu Park (pronounced Chiche - mi - gou if you trying to sound French in the 1890s) is one the defining parks of that particular period. "This Viennese Chap Meyer" was the horticulturist in charge of most of the park as it acquired it's high-society status during the second part of the XIXth century. The very elegant style of his planting can still be felt today. "As we walk through the trees",  we really get the old-fashioned feel in the Chichemigou park. Boats, ducks, name signs that look just like the ones in Paris...

As for "Thierry's Restaurant",  it was an actual french-owned place, quite charming from what I've read - so, exactly the opposite of the restaurant which is now there, funnily enough (little hello to the comically unfriendly staff - it is worth a "glass of white wine", it's hilarious, and definitely gives it a certain Frenchness).